Intentional Shopping: How to Impact Fashion Sustainability

Who doesn’t enjoy the feeling of buying something for yourself or someone you love? Finding the perfect “thing” can be fun, and even life-changing. But if you aren’t careful, the feel-good chemicals generated when shopping—adrenaline and dopamine—can make the activity addicting.

On average, Americans spend $2,000 on clothes every year with 82% of those purchases remaining unworn and 17 million tons being thrown away. This behavior has made fashion one of the most destructive yet lucrative industries in the world.

So, how did shopping become such a problem, and is it possible to course-correct?

Fashion has relied on seasonal trends since its inception. The latest couture and ready-to-wear designs are typically displayed at runway shows a year in advance, which gives retailers an opportunity to place orders while simultaneously producing similar designs for the masses. Over the past few decades manufacturing has become cheaper and quicker, giving rise to fast fashion. 

In an attempt to remain competitive, designers and retailers have shortened production cycles considerably. Taking a design from concept to market used to require—at best—six months, but can now be completed in just a couple of days. As a result, an estimated 100 billion clothes are made annually. With about eight billion people on the planet, that’s 12 pieces per person per year, and the industry needs us to buy it…and then some.

Due to the rapid turnover of trends and sales pricing strategies, fashion encourages us to buy more, more often and tempts us with creative signs and lower prices. It creates a false sense of urgency when shopping. Research shows we are more likely to make an impulse buy under such conditions, especially in a retail store. A recent study examined foot traffic by surveying 3,000 shoppers and revealed that 62% made an impulsive buying decision during their visit. While these tactics increase the volume of clothes produced and sold, it has also caused a decline in overall durability and quality, leading to both a consumerist and throwaway culture.

The so-called savings from lower prices are passed on to you through the cost-cutting measures that fashion prioritizes to increase profits. This results in the use of cheap materials and cheap labor. Currently, over 60% of clothes are made from synthetic fibers. Although these fibers have benefits that you may desire—like being drapey or smooth—usage can take a toll on people and the planet. Many of the dyes and finishes applied to synthetic fibers are toxic and cause health issues like skin irritation and endocrine disruption. When thrown away, it takes hundreds of years to decompose, leaching microplastics into waterways and contributing to up to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions. To make matters worse, the clothes that aren’t sold are often burned.

Shoppers and prospective shoppers at a mall / Krisztina Papp via Unsplash

The Global South bears the biggest burden of these impacts, even though most of the consumption occurs in the Global North. Countries like China, India, and Vietnam are sought out for their cheap labor rates, fast manufacturing times, and nonrestrictive environmental regulations. Then, after clothes reach the end of their life cycle, the waste ends up back in the region. In fact, more than 70% of clothes donated around the world are exported to countries in Africa.

Additionally, garment workers are constantly at risk. According to a 2019 report published by the International Labour Organization, they are subject to gender discrimination, wage theft, and unsafe environments in the workplace. Four years ago, dozens of mass market retailers canceled approximately $40 billion in orders in response to the global pandemic, making it one of the biggest wage thefts in the history of fashion. The non-profit organization Remake formed the #PayUp campaign to advocate on behalf of the affected factory owners and garment workers. Some $22 billion was recouped. Yet, the pressure to meet production deadlines continues, perpetuating the occurrence of child labor, forced labor, and worker exploitation on a systemic level.

In 2021, Boston Consulting Group reported that 35% of shoppers consider price first when buying clothes and only 7% consider sustainability. The hyperfocus on cheapness and convenience drives mass consumption and overproduction, keeping the cycle of low cost, low-quality clothes in motion. Although it has made clothes more accessible and exciting, it comes at the price of global health.

But there is hope! Whether you believe it or not, you hold the power to enact change. Movements around the world are growing in an effort to slow down fashion and promote intentional shopping. Though the shift toward sustainability in the industry calls for systemic change, there are actions we can take as individuals to reduce our impacts on other people and the planet.

Here are a few ways to get started:

1. Buy Less, Wear More

Stop participating in seasonal trends. Curate a wardrobe of high-quality pieces that you can mix and match all year round. Taking this approach will minimize waste and, perhaps, save you time by making it easier to choose what to wear. If you must shop for clothes, before completing a purchase, ask yourself if it will complement what you already own, and whether it is made to last.

2. Quality Over Quantity

Choose clothes made from durable, natural materials. This includes cotton, hemp, linen, and wool. These materials tend to be more sustainable than synthetic fibers like acrylic, nylon, or polyester. Furthermore, investing in higher-quality clothes will reduce the need for replacements and decrease your overall consumption.

3. Support Ethical Labels

Shop with labels that practice fair labor, responsible sourcing, and supplier transparency. Ask questions if a label doesn’t clearly state their approach to sustainability. Get comfortable with researching this information to better understand how your clothes are being made and if the processes align with your values.

4. Buy Secondhand or Vintage

Shopping at consignment, secondhand, resale, or vintage stores allows you to discover unique, high-quality clothes that are new to you but offer another life. You can reimagine clothes of the past, not only flexing your creativity but also reducing the demand for new clothes to be made.

5. Wash Less Frequently

Washing clothes too much not only wears them out but also adds to microplastic pollution. Try spot cleaning instead and wash when absolutely necessary. Choose a cold water cycle to preserve color and fabric quality, and consider using a laundry bag, such as Guppyfriend, that captures microplastics.

6. Dry Clothes Naturally

Air drying clothes conserves energy and quality. A tumble dryer can shrink and deteriorate clothes over time. Hanging clothes on a line or drying rack will also prevent the shrinkage and deterioration that often occurs in dryers.

7. Store Clothes Properly

Storage is important in extending the life of your clothes. Folding is optimal as it prevents stretching. If tucked away, you can add a lavender satchel or your favorite aromatic herb to keep the storage fresh. In instances when using a hanger, select the appropriate size and use padded hangers for delicate clothes. For wool clothes, use a breathable bag to avoid damage from moths or insects.

8. Repair, Reduce, Recycle

Should you ever feel the urge to throw your damaged (or any) clothes away, don’t follow it. Rather than putting them in the trash, take them to your local tailor or seamstress. If you know how to sew, or want to learn, break out a sewing machine or kit and make the repair. The simple act of mending greatly reduces textile waste. If your clothes are too far gone, upcycle or recycle them. Contact a local upcycling designer to collaborate on a new design or find a textile shredding facility that can take your clothes.

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Ultimately, when done with intention, shopping can make a positive impact. By opting for quality over quantity, supporting ethical labels, and caring for clothes properly, you can take meaningful steps toward a more sustainable industry and future.